How to choose fabrics
Choosing the right fabric can make or break your sewing project. When you are buying fabric, both in person or online, it’s easy to get overwhelmed and confused. To help you out, we have compiled this straightforward guide to selecting the perfect fabric for your next creation.
1. Start with Your Pattern
Before you buy your fabric, take a careful look at your pattern. Most patterns will include recommended fabric types. These suggestions are there for a reason, they take into account the drape, weight, and stretch to ensure your finished garment looks and fits as the designer intended.
For example, your pattern might recommend:
Cotton Poplin or Cotton Lawn - these cotton fabrics are great for beginners and ideal for shirts, dresses, and skirts.
Jersey - A stretch fabric which is perfect for T-shirts and body-hugging garments. Be sure to check the stretch percentage required for your garment.
Linen - This is wonderful for warm-weather clothing with a breezy, structured look.
Denim or Twill - These heavier and more stable fabrics are best for trousers, jackets, and durable garments.
Rayon/Viscose - Light and flow fabrics which are excellent for dresses and skirts with movement.
I would suggest you research the fabric suggestions and see which fabric composition you like the most. We often get carried away by beautiful fabrics, but be mindful of how the fabric will feel on your body and how it will hang. Will it be a floaty fabric, will it be stretchy, will it be comfortable? These are important things to consider before falling in love with a lovely print. Be mindful of how it will feel and look whilst keeping your sewing project in mind.
2. Understand Fabric Weight
Fabric weight is typically measured in gsm (grams per square metre). Lighter fabrics like chiffon and voile can be under 100gsm while heavier fabrics like canvas and upholstery fabrics can exceed 300gsm. If you are choosing fabric, this information is invaluable to ensure that the fabric you buy is suitable and has the right amount of structure and drape.
Lightweight Fabric (under 150 gsm): Voile, chiffon, lace, for blouses, linings, and floaty dresses.
Medium weight (150–250 gsm): Cotton, linen, jersey, for everyday wear.
Heavyweight (250+ gsm): Wool, denim, canvas, for jackets, jeans, and structured garments.
We have this information to hand for all fabrics sold at Sewcialising, so feel free to ask us in store if you wish to get further information about a particular fabric weight, otherwise if shopping online, all fabric compositions are noted in the description of each fabric on our website.
3. Check Fabric Stretch
If your project calls for a stretch fabric (like leggings or bodycon dresses), you will need a fabric with elastane or Lycra in it. Stretch fabrics come in two categories:
Two-way stretch (stretches one direction)
Four-way stretch (stretches both directions, best for activewear)
If you choose a non-stretch fabric for a stretch-required pattern, your garment may not fit or move properly.
4. Don’t Forget to Pre-wash
Most natural fabrics (like cotton and linen) can shrink when washed. Always pre-wash your fabric as you would wash the finished garment, then press it before cutting your pattern if you have the time to do so.
5. Choose Wisely
Choosing fabric is the foundation of your project. If you choose the right one, everything else flows more easily.
Look at your current wardrobe, what you like to wear and what is your style and that may help you choose your fabric. Equally, feel free to go out of your comfort zone and buy a print that is bold and totally different to what you would usually wear, you may just be surprised how it pans out and it may even become your favourite garment in your wardrobe! A fabric can look beautiful in one pattern design and totally different or perhaps not as flattering in another design, depending on how complex your pattern choice is. Sewing is all about trying new things and having fun along the way!
Take your time, ask questions in the shop, our lovely staff will be happy to help plan your next sewing project, and don't be afraid to experiment!
