Gathering Techniques
If you're a fan of The Great British Sewing Bee, you’ll know that the pattern challenge is always nerve-wracking. The very first one of Series 11 was no exception.
In Episode 1 the theme was “Shape” and the 12 new sewers tackled a tie front blouse where the shape was created with a gathered peplum. As judge Patrick Grant pointed out, the success of the garment depended on the quality of those gathers. Although gathering may seem simple, there is more than one way to approach it.
Today we’re going to look at a few common (and some less common) gathering techniques that you can use in your sewing projects.
Whether you are creating a full skirt, puff sleeves, or a peplum, understanding how to gather fabric effectively will help you to achieve professional looking results and give shape to your projects.
1/ Two Rows of Long Stitches
This is the most commonly used gathering technique and was featured prominently in the Sewing Bee pattern challenge.
Here is how it works:
- Sew two parallel lines of long straight stitches (also called basting stitches) one either side of the seam allowance.
- Leave long thread tails at both ends.
Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather the fabric evenly.
- Sew your pieces together along the seam line and then carefully unpick the line of basting stitches which is visible on the right side.
Pros: Easy to do, gives you good control over the gathers.
Cons: The threads can snap if you're not careful, especially on heavy fabrics.
For very long lengths of fabric, it may be easier to divide the gathers into sections.
2/ Three Rows of Basting for Extra Control This is a slightly more refined version of the method described above. Adding a third row of basting gives better distribution and smoother gathers.
- Sew three rows of gathering stitches, and one just inside the seam allowance, one on the seam line, and one just outside the seam.
- Pull all three bobbin threads gently to gather.
- Sew along the centre line and then unpick the visible basting stitches as before.
Pros: Produces very even and professional-looking gathers.
Cons: Slightly more time-consuming, but worth it, especially for high-visibility seams.
3/ Zigzag Over Cord or Dental Floss
This method is perfect for heavier fabrics or when you want strong, smooth gathers.
- Place a piece of strong thread, cord, or dental floss on your fabric inside the seam allowance.
- Using a wide zigzag stitch, sew over the cord without catching it.
- Pull the cord to gather the fabric.
- The cord or floss can be removed afterwards if needed.
Pros: Threads won’t break easily; great for dense or layered fabric.
Cons: Requires care when zigzagging.
4/ Using Elastic
This method is especially useful for knit fabrics or when you want the gathers to have a bit of stretch.
- Cut a piece of elastic to the finished length you want.
- Stretch the elastic as you sew it to the fabric, using a zigzag or stretch stitch.
- When you release, the fabric gathers along the elastic.
Pros: Built-in stretch, great for children’s clothes or knitwear.
Cons: Less traditional, not suitable for all fabric types.
5/ Gathering Foot Attachment
If you want speed and consistency, a gathering foot for your sewing machine might be the answer.
- Attach the gathering foot.
- Sew as usual; the foot pushes extra fabric under the needle, creating gathers as you go.
Pros: Quick and consistent gathers.
Cons: You have less control over placement, not ideal for precise applications.
6/ Ruffler Foot
The ruffler foot is a more advanced presser foot that creates even pleats or gathers at set intervals.
- Refer to your sewing machine manual and adjust the settings for depth and frequency.
- The foot does the hard work of gathering and sewing simultaneously.
Pros: Precise and adjustable; great for large-scale ruffling.
Cons: Requires practice and setup and may be overkill for small projects.
The challenge in The Great British Sewing Bee highlighted just how important good gathering technique is, not just technically, but stylistically too.
Whether you’re going for soft, romantic ruffles or structured volume, the method you choose can elevate your garment from homemade to handmade.
Which gathering technique is your go-to? Or have you discovered a unique method of your own? Share your favourite method with us!
