Sewing Activewear
Last week’s theme on the Great British Sewing Bee pushed the sewists into sporty territory with innovative transformation and made-to-measure challenges centered around activewear.
Activewear typically combines comfort, performance, and style. However sewing with sporty stretch fabrics like lycra, spandex or technical knits can feel like a workout in itself.
Here are some quick tips to help you sew these types of fabric with confidence.
1/ Choose the Right Fabric
Look for:
- Stretch jersey, lycra, ponte, or French terry for leggings, tops, and joggers.
- Moisture-wicking fabrics for workout gear.
- Four-way stretch for maximum movement (e.g. yoga pants).
2/ Use the Right Needle and Thread
- Use a ballpoint or stretch needle to avoid skipped stitches.
- Choose polyester thread, it stretches better than cotton.
3/ Master the Stretch Stitch
- Use a zigzag or (if you have one) a lightning bolt stitch on a regular machine if you have one, try a serger/overlocker for more professional-looking seams.
- Set your stitch length to about 2.5mm and avoid stretching the fabric as you sew.
- Let the machine feed it through naturally.
4/ Stabilize Where Needed
- Activewear often has waistbands, cuffs, or zippers. You need to take care not to stretch these parts too much.
- Use clear elastic or knit interfacing to stabilize seams, particularly at the shoulders.
- For waistbands, neckbands and armholes consider a fold-over elastic (FOE) for smooth, stretchy support.
5/ For a Professional Finish
- Twin needle hems give a polished look with stretch fabrics.
- Avoid heavy pressing, instead use steam or a press cloth.
Above all, don’t be afraid to experiment. Start with a simple tank or leggings pattern and, once you're comfortable, play with color-blocking, mesh panels, or zippered pockets. Maybe you’ll soon be able to create something similar to the beautiful garments we saw this week.